Hi: Dan
Regarding your co-worker climbing Kilimanjaro, since I don't know the person I'll start at the beginning:
You'll enjoy the trip more if you're not hurting so...
Practice, practice, practice!
Get out and walk. Walking in hills and mountains is best but if you can't make it out of town then walk in the river valley. Walk the slopes. And get off the trails, they're too smooth and level. The paths that you will be walking on in Africa will be uneven. You need to get used to walking on uneven terrain with irregular stride length. Your muscles need to get used to it. Carry a day-pack with 10 or 15 pounds in it. Get in at least 12 hours before you go away. More is better.
Build your cardio and aerobic capacity. I used an old stair-climber (thanks Shannon) but anything that gets your heart rate up and exorcizes your legs should be good, cycling might be OK, x-country running would be better. The formula for heart rate is 220 minus your age to get your maximum recommended heartbeats per minute. When I was 46 years old this was 174 B/M. Exorcize to bring your heart rate to between 65% (113) and 85% (148) of your max and hold it there for 20 minutes. You need to do this 3 or more times per week. Don't start too hard, if you've been living a sedentary lifestyle DON'T TRY TO DO EVERYTHING AT ONCE. Start with your valley walks and make them longer and quicker until you feel like you can start real cardio. If possible, work your way up to the high end of the range before you go away. Above 3000M elevation the air starts to get thin. At the summit, a breath has only about 60% of the oxygen that it does here. You will need the extra aerobic capacity. I worked very hard on my cardio before my trip. On our last night before the summit climb I was the only one of our group able to sleep. Lieing flat on my back, relaxing, my heart rate was over 90 B/M. The air is thin at the 4600 metre Barafu Camp...and you'll be going higher. On summit day your heart rate will be in triple digits for between 12 and 24 continuous hours. Prepare.
On the mountain you never have to move quickly but you do have to keep moving and the days can be long. Eight to ten hours walking is not unusual. On the day we did the summit we walked 24 hours in a 30 hour span. Porters carry most of your supplies but you have to carry your daytime requirements - lunch, water, spare clothes, snacks, 1st aid, etc.
If your tour is like mine then you will be climbing +/-1000M (net) pre day but with all of the ups and downs the real climbing will be closer to 1600M or 2000M. On summit day we ascended 1400M and descended 2800M (net).
Prepare your body. You will be happier, more comfortable and have a better chance of success if you do the work in advance.
Gear
I assume the tour company has given you a list of things to bring along for your comfort and well-being during the climb and perhaps they've also included some advice. Here's mine:
Boots -
If you don't already have some, get yourself some good, comfortable hiking boots and break them in before you go. If you need to buy some, take a hiker with you. Sales people don't always know what they are talking about (my experience is that they usually don't), wear a pair of heavy wool socks when trying them on. Buy a can of Dubbin and water-proof them. Wear them on your valley walks.
SLEEPING BAG -
My tour was pretty unspecific about the type of sleeping bag I should have. I took an "MEC hybrid -20' mummy bag." At the time it cost about $150 and was worth every penny. I haven't checked in person but I think it is similar to this:
http://www.mec.ca/product/5025-643/mec-phoenix-hybrid-sleeping-bag-20c-unisex/?h=10+50130+50049+50880&f=10+50130+51089
An average night at Barafu Camp is -10' If you're cold you won't sleep and that will make it hard to walk 8 (or 18) hours the next day.
MATTRESS -
You'll need an insulated mat. I used a "Thermarest Basecamp" and had no problems. MEC doesn't seem to list that model on their website any-more. My wife uses an "Exped Downmat 9 Pump" and swears by it, it's lighter and packs smaller than the Thermarest. The updated version is here:
http://www.mec.ca/product/5037-690/exped-downmat-9-xp-sleeping-pad-unisex?No=0&h=10+50050+52299+50130&f=10+50050+50130
MEC probably makes a comparable house-brand.
WATER BOTTLE -
No Camelback/Platypus. My tour instructions and most guide books are pretty clear on this but some people miss it anyway. The drinking tube on a Camelback/Platypus will freeze at the temperatures that you are likely to be climbing in. It happened to one of the guys on my tour (the only one to bring a Camelback/Platypus) and he was either too proud or embarrassed to mention it. He made it to the top but collapsed on the way down. Dehydration is a bad thing.
I carried 2 Nalgene bottles. 1 X 1L and 1 X 0.5L. When the weather turns cold they can be carried inside your jacket.
CLOTHING -
No cotton. This means you! All of your clothing has labels attached that tell you what it's made of. Don't take any cotton clothing up the mountain with you. Cotton is fine in the towns, at lower elevations, where you need to keep cool but it will sap the heat out of you at higher elevations. You will be climbing at elevations that are too high for a helicopter to come get you so don't endanger yourself. Wear wool or synthetic (acrylic is pretty good).
LAYERS -
I'm sure you've heard that it's best to dress in layers for cold weather so be prepared to do it. I suggest some light longies that you can also sleep in plus a couple of pairs of pants (1 lighter and 1 heavier) that can be worn over each other plus a pair of wind-proof, rain-proof shell pants.
Long sleeve wool undershirt that you can also sleep in plus a long sleeve shirt plus 2 sweaters (1 lighter and 1 heavier) that can be worn over each other plus a wind-proof, rain-proof shell jacket.
A good touque plus a bella clava.
Light gloves or glove-liners plus wind-proof, rain-proof mitts. Mitts are better than gloves at keeping your hands warm. If your glove-liners aren't keeping your hands warm enough put the mitts on over them.
Heavy wool socks plus light synthetic liners.
A pair of Crocs to wear around camp (with or without socks) to air your feet out a bit.
WOOL -
Most outdoor stores and sports magazines will try to sell you the latest synthetic clothing but most of the folks that I know who have tried the synthetics are switching back to wool and down when it's time to replace worn-out gear. Down is usually more expensive that synthetic but wool isn't, it's just a bit heavier.
SYNTHETICS -
Synthetics are good for some things and not for others. The biggest complaint I hear is that they don't breathe (ad copy not withstanding) and although they can be quite warm while you're active they hold in sweat and become quite cold when you rest. This is something to be avoided when you will be sleeping outside (possibly in sub-zero temperatures) for 5 or 6 nights.
Despite this I still occasionally wear knit acrylic sweaters. They're light, cheap and if they get wet you can shake them out to expel the moisture and their insulation properties come back. I wouldn't used a woven acrylic under-shirt. Woven acrylic holds on to moisture much more than knit.
TIPS FOR THE CLIMB -
You'll probably be wearing the same cloths (more or less) for a week and there's no place to take a shower. Take some HANDY WIPES to towel yourself off with when you need to.
Take some EAR PLUGS in case others on the tour snore.
You will need a HEAD LAMP for the final ascent but you will have uses for it before and after that too. Take SPARE BATTERIES.
Dehydration is a bad thing. Consider taking some powdered GATORADE to mix with your water. Alternatively, you can get ORT (Oral Rehydration Therapy) powder at any drug store (apothecary or chemist) in Tanzania. It's cheap and effective, but it tastes like spit. It's better to stay hydrated than try to recover from dehydration.
On the day(s) that you descend your knees will thank you if you use POLES. I rented a set at the bottom of the mountain for $1US for the week.
You might be above the clouds for a good deal of the hike so SUN GLASSES are a good idea. UVA, UVB & polarized are my favourite. If you can't get the combination of features go for the UV protection.
EATING -
Eat everything that you're given by the tour company. At altitude people lose their appetite and it can be quite hard to cram down the smallest snack. Eat it anyway, you will need the energy.
Carry a zip lock of jujubes, hard candies, gummies, Smarties or the like. Sometimes it's easier to suck on a candy than eat a boiled egg.
DRINKING -
Dehydration is a bad thing. When air pressure decreases at altitude the water in your body boils away through your eyes, nose, mouth and lungs in addition to your normal sweat. You need to replace it by regular drinking. I carried a bottle in my hand for most of the climb and made myself sip, sip, sip. If you feel head-achy, nauseous or become uncoordinated or start to stumble, take a drink immediately.
ALTITUDE SICKNESS -
This is a serious condition. A lot of the early symptoms of altitude sickness are similar to being dehydrated or being hung over. If you start to feel unwell let your guide know as soon as possible. You may have to go down.
A friend of mine tried this climb a few years ago and thought he could 'tough out' the discomfort. He was coughing up blood before the guide caught him and sent him down.
THIN AIR -
It's amazing how stupid you can get when your brain is oxygen starved. Until I got down into the thicker air, 2800M below, I didn't realize how impaired my thinking had been at the summit. Know this and plan for it. Think about the things that might go wrong on the mountain and what to do in each circumstance. What would make you abandon the climb? What constitutes an emergency? The higher you go the less clear your thinking will be and the more likely you are to make an error in judgement so do your really important thinking and planning down low.
TREATS -
Treats are appreciated by everyone, fellow climbers and staff alike. Hard candies, gummies, cookies are all good things to share. Share yours at the first opportunity so you don't wind up carrying them for days.
TIPS FOR THE TRIP -
HEALTH AND SAFETY -
Get your shots well in advance. Sometimes there is a waiting list and some shots must be taken as a course of shots over time.
For MALARIA you will be offered a variety of drug options. I chose the twice-a-day amoxycilan. It calls for clock-watching, discipline and piles of pills but I wouldn't even consider the once-a-week option. One of the 'possible side effects' of that drug is permanent psychosis. I don't know why that drug would even be offered.
It doesn't hurt to carry your own basic 1st aid kit plus some extra foot-care items. Two people on my tour wound up with hideously blistered and bruised feet.
MONEY -
I don't know how your trip is being managed or who is handling the money but some things in Tanzania must be paid in US dollars cash. If you are responsible for any of this then know that they won't accept bills that are torn or excessively wrinkled/crumpled. They like crisp, new cash.
Most things can be bought with local Shillings and the National Bank of Commerce (NBC) has cash machines in all major cities. It's been 10 years since I was there (2006) so other banks probably have machines now too. It's nice to have some local currency so you can wander the streets if you have some free time. I would suggest opening an account at a bank other than your regular one and getting a bank card that only has access to that account then deposit what you think is a reasonable amount of spending money for the trip. If the card gets compromised while you're travelling the thieves only have access to that one deposit and not your whole portfolio. Tell your banker what you plan to do and that you plan to go to Tanzania/Kenya. If you don't let the bank know in advance there is the possibility that the card my be cancelled if it is used outside of North America.
I might be showing my age here but don't bother with traveller's cheques. They will be more trouble than they're worth. Most people and businesses won't accept them and and they can take more than an hour to cash at a bank.
SOCIETY -
If you haven't been to Africa before, it's not like here. Things will take some getting used to.
It's an awful thing to say but in Tanzania everybody has their hand out. From the legless beggar on the sidewalk to the suit-wearing businessman in the SUV, sooner of later you will be asked for money.
Rich and poor live side by side, or at least in the same neighbourhood. Don't be afraid to go out and meet the locals, most are just trying to make a living, but stick with the crowds. Stay in public places, don't go off with somebody alone, every society has its 'bad eggs.' But definitely visit a local bar or restaurant. Buy something from a street vendor. In Moshi (and you'll be going there) I saw a fellow sitting on the sidewalk with his treadle sewing machine. I bought a piece of printed cloth for $2 and he sewed it into a shirt for $5. I still have it.
Street hawkers will follow you down the street to sell you something. I had one follow me for 6 blocks in Moshi. If you only speak English they will know that you're fresh off the plane so "Hapana Asante" is your friend. It means 'No Thank you' in Swahili. All of the vowels are pronounced. All of the a's are soft and the "e" is hard. Say "Hapana Asante," try to sound bored and keep walking. It won't eliminate all hassles but it will cut down the number.
Of course, if you like something "yes please" is, "ndiyo tafadhali." Once again all a's are soft, "i" & "o" are hard.
Tanzania is a country constructed by European colonialists from about 120 separate tribes, each with their own language and culture. To help hold the country together everybody learns Swahili (the official language) in elementary school. Elementary school is mandatory and taught in Swahili to grade 8. Beyond that, high school and university are taught in English. Just about everyone you meet will speak English but it's nice to have a few words of Swahili because it shows that you will speak to anyone, not just the educated and rich.
That's all I have for right now but I'm pretty sure that there is more and I've forgotten something. The question I was asked was open ended and I've tried to cover a lot of ground. If you need specific information, clarification or want to ask a more in-depth question please write or give me a call or buy me a beer. I'd love to chat.
Brent
More about the Mountain
Last weekend I talked to my friend who had tried to climb Kilimanjaro and been turned around 500 metres below the summit. He quoted the Assistant Guide as saying, "You go top, you die."
Don't forget that people die on Kilimanjaro every year. The day before we started our climb a man, who had made it to the top, died on the way down. Two more people died while we were on the mountain. Three had also died in the previous calender month. It's serious business. Remember, for a climbing expedition to be a success, you have to make it to the bottom of the mountain.
Some tours offer an add-on of going to Zanzibar before or after the Kili climb. If you plan to do this my advice is to go after the climb. It's much safer physiologically to go from a mountain top to sea level than to go from sea level to a mountain top. My unfortunate friend went scuba diving off Zanzibar before heading up the mountain; the worst possible order in which to do things.
I've talked about dehydration quite a bit. I don't know if you did the experiment in Junior-high physics where you take a beaker of tap water and put it under a bell-jar. Then you start to pump the air out of the jar and as the air pressure drops the water starts to boil off the surface. The same thing happens to the water in your body when you're on the mountain. The air pressure there is about 30 or 35% less than it is at sea level. Water evaporates out of your nose and mouth and lungs at a much higher rate than it does at home. Keep drinking.
If you don't own a lot of outdoor, cold weather gear you can load up on wool and acrylic at the Value Village or Goodwill or the like. Military surplus stores also carry some good stuff. You don't have to be fashionable to do this climb, just warm and comfortable. If you don't plan to do more of this type of adventuring you can lighten your load by giving your clothes to the guides and porters at the end of the trip. They will appreciate it and I found it easier to give away things that I had bought used and cheap rather than things that I'd bought new and only worn the once.
Don't take 'Heat Factory' or 'Hot Hands' or 'Hot Pockets' or other self-heating packets up the mountain. You know, the kind with the plastic packet that you just tear open and they heat up by themselves? There isn't enough oxygen at the top of the mountain for them to work properly.
Try not to get too enthusiastic about the climb. I know that sounds funny and it probably isn't the right wording for what I mean. Your guide should set a slow, steady pace for the hike. Keep up with him and keep moving, don't try to zoom ahead, even if the path is well marked or an assistant-guide is willing to take you up faster, or if other hikers are passing you along the way. On our first day we got passed by a Scottish hiking club that was on a fund-raiser. Two of their group burned themselves out and couldn't continue on the second day. Very sad. In thin air your recovery time is longer than at lower elevation and the air on your first night won't be nearly as thin as will get to be the night before you summit. Save your strength.
Nobody told me about the short shelf between Stella Point and Uhuru Peak. On summit-day you'll climb a long switchback scree slope to Stella Point. That's on the rim of the caldera and is the end of the steep climbing. You'll get a certificate from the Park Office if you make it that far. After that you walk a relatively gentle slope around the rim to reach the highest point. Along the way the very broad path narrows and you find yourself with a stone wall on your left and cliff on your right. There is no real danger of falling since the shelf is (from memory) 3 or 4 feet wide and only 10 or 15 feet long, but I'm afraid of heights so it kind of freaked me out. After the shelf the path widens out again, almost wide enough for a soccer field.
Cell phones are pretty much useless during the climb since their signals are intended to be line-of-sight but from the top of the mountain you can see Moshi. I saw several people talking on their phones from the top. (Probably analogue at the time.)
If you have the mountain climbing/hiking bug and have the time, go to Arusha and climb Mount Meru. My tour did this as a warm-up and the tour leader told me, "You came to Africa to climb Kilimanjaro and if you don't make it you'll be disappointed but if you climb both of these mountains successfully you will like Meru better." He was right. The climb is steeper but it's still just a steep hike, no ropes or harnesses, although I did use my hands a few times. The summit is almost a mile lower than Kili so the air is thicker, less chance of altitude sickness. The climb takes you through several climactic zones so you see the changes in the vegetation and wildlife (and there is wildlife); after the 1st day on Kili most of the scenery is rocks. The facilities on Meru are better. The view from the top is spectacular. Meru almost comes to a point, there is a flat area on top about the size of your bedroom, on 3 sides the mountain slopes down steeply on the 4th side are the highest cliffs in Africa. Kilimanjaro is relatively crowded but the day we submitted Meru we were the only people on the mountain.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Meru_%28Tanzania%29
I think that's about it, unless you have questions.
Brent
P.S. "Baridi bia tafadhali" = Cold beer, please.
Regarding your co-worker climbing Kilimanjaro, since I don't know the person I'll start at the beginning:
You'll enjoy the trip more if you're not hurting so...
Practice, practice, practice!
Get out and walk. Walking in hills and mountains is best but if you can't make it out of town then walk in the river valley. Walk the slopes. And get off the trails, they're too smooth and level. The paths that you will be walking on in Africa will be uneven. You need to get used to walking on uneven terrain with irregular stride length. Your muscles need to get used to it. Carry a day-pack with 10 or 15 pounds in it. Get in at least 12 hours before you go away. More is better.
Build your cardio and aerobic capacity. I used an old stair-climber (thanks Shannon) but anything that gets your heart rate up and exorcizes your legs should be good, cycling might be OK, x-country running would be better. The formula for heart rate is 220 minus your age to get your maximum recommended heartbeats per minute. When I was 46 years old this was 174 B/M. Exorcize to bring your heart rate to between 65% (113) and 85% (148) of your max and hold it there for 20 minutes. You need to do this 3 or more times per week. Don't start too hard, if you've been living a sedentary lifestyle DON'T TRY TO DO EVERYTHING AT ONCE. Start with your valley walks and make them longer and quicker until you feel like you can start real cardio. If possible, work your way up to the high end of the range before you go away. Above 3000M elevation the air starts to get thin. At the summit, a breath has only about 60% of the oxygen that it does here. You will need the extra aerobic capacity. I worked very hard on my cardio before my trip. On our last night before the summit climb I was the only one of our group able to sleep. Lieing flat on my back, relaxing, my heart rate was over 90 B/M. The air is thin at the 4600 metre Barafu Camp...and you'll be going higher. On summit day your heart rate will be in triple digits for between 12 and 24 continuous hours. Prepare.
On the mountain you never have to move quickly but you do have to keep moving and the days can be long. Eight to ten hours walking is not unusual. On the day we did the summit we walked 24 hours in a 30 hour span. Porters carry most of your supplies but you have to carry your daytime requirements - lunch, water, spare clothes, snacks, 1st aid, etc.
If your tour is like mine then you will be climbing +/-1000M (net) pre day but with all of the ups and downs the real climbing will be closer to 1600M or 2000M. On summit day we ascended 1400M and descended 2800M (net).
Prepare your body. You will be happier, more comfortable and have a better chance of success if you do the work in advance.
Gear
I assume the tour company has given you a list of things to bring along for your comfort and well-being during the climb and perhaps they've also included some advice. Here's mine:
Boots -
If you don't already have some, get yourself some good, comfortable hiking boots and break them in before you go. If you need to buy some, take a hiker with you. Sales people don't always know what they are talking about (my experience is that they usually don't), wear a pair of heavy wool socks when trying them on. Buy a can of Dubbin and water-proof them. Wear them on your valley walks.
SLEEPING BAG -
My tour was pretty unspecific about the type of sleeping bag I should have. I took an "MEC hybrid -20' mummy bag." At the time it cost about $150 and was worth every penny. I haven't checked in person but I think it is similar to this:
http://www.mec.ca/product/5025-643/mec-phoenix-hybrid-sleeping-bag-20c-unisex/?h=10+50130+50049+50880&f=10+50130+51089
An average night at Barafu Camp is -10' If you're cold you won't sleep and that will make it hard to walk 8 (or 18) hours the next day.
MATTRESS -
You'll need an insulated mat. I used a "Thermarest Basecamp" and had no problems. MEC doesn't seem to list that model on their website any-more. My wife uses an "Exped Downmat 9 Pump" and swears by it, it's lighter and packs smaller than the Thermarest. The updated version is here:
http://www.mec.ca/product/5037-690/exped-downmat-9-xp-sleeping-pad-unisex?No=0&h=10+50050+52299+50130&f=10+50050+50130
MEC probably makes a comparable house-brand.
WATER BOTTLE -
No Camelback/Platypus. My tour instructions and most guide books are pretty clear on this but some people miss it anyway. The drinking tube on a Camelback/Platypus will freeze at the temperatures that you are likely to be climbing in. It happened to one of the guys on my tour (the only one to bring a Camelback/Platypus) and he was either too proud or embarrassed to mention it. He made it to the top but collapsed on the way down. Dehydration is a bad thing.
I carried 2 Nalgene bottles. 1 X 1L and 1 X 0.5L. When the weather turns cold they can be carried inside your jacket.
CLOTHING -
No cotton. This means you! All of your clothing has labels attached that tell you what it's made of. Don't take any cotton clothing up the mountain with you. Cotton is fine in the towns, at lower elevations, where you need to keep cool but it will sap the heat out of you at higher elevations. You will be climbing at elevations that are too high for a helicopter to come get you so don't endanger yourself. Wear wool or synthetic (acrylic is pretty good).
LAYERS -
I'm sure you've heard that it's best to dress in layers for cold weather so be prepared to do it. I suggest some light longies that you can also sleep in plus a couple of pairs of pants (1 lighter and 1 heavier) that can be worn over each other plus a pair of wind-proof, rain-proof shell pants.
Long sleeve wool undershirt that you can also sleep in plus a long sleeve shirt plus 2 sweaters (1 lighter and 1 heavier) that can be worn over each other plus a wind-proof, rain-proof shell jacket.
A good touque plus a bella clava.
Light gloves or glove-liners plus wind-proof, rain-proof mitts. Mitts are better than gloves at keeping your hands warm. If your glove-liners aren't keeping your hands warm enough put the mitts on over them.
Heavy wool socks plus light synthetic liners.
A pair of Crocs to wear around camp (with or without socks) to air your feet out a bit.
WOOL -
Most outdoor stores and sports magazines will try to sell you the latest synthetic clothing but most of the folks that I know who have tried the synthetics are switching back to wool and down when it's time to replace worn-out gear. Down is usually more expensive that synthetic but wool isn't, it's just a bit heavier.
SYNTHETICS -
Synthetics are good for some things and not for others. The biggest complaint I hear is that they don't breathe (ad copy not withstanding) and although they can be quite warm while you're active they hold in sweat and become quite cold when you rest. This is something to be avoided when you will be sleeping outside (possibly in sub-zero temperatures) for 5 or 6 nights.
Despite this I still occasionally wear knit acrylic sweaters. They're light, cheap and if they get wet you can shake them out to expel the moisture and their insulation properties come back. I wouldn't used a woven acrylic under-shirt. Woven acrylic holds on to moisture much more than knit.
TIPS FOR THE CLIMB -
You'll probably be wearing the same cloths (more or less) for a week and there's no place to take a shower. Take some HANDY WIPES to towel yourself off with when you need to.
Take some EAR PLUGS in case others on the tour snore.
You will need a HEAD LAMP for the final ascent but you will have uses for it before and after that too. Take SPARE BATTERIES.
Dehydration is a bad thing. Consider taking some powdered GATORADE to mix with your water. Alternatively, you can get ORT (Oral Rehydration Therapy) powder at any drug store (apothecary or chemist) in Tanzania. It's cheap and effective, but it tastes like spit. It's better to stay hydrated than try to recover from dehydration.
On the day(s) that you descend your knees will thank you if you use POLES. I rented a set at the bottom of the mountain for $1US for the week.
You might be above the clouds for a good deal of the hike so SUN GLASSES are a good idea. UVA, UVB & polarized are my favourite. If you can't get the combination of features go for the UV protection.
EATING -
Eat everything that you're given by the tour company. At altitude people lose their appetite and it can be quite hard to cram down the smallest snack. Eat it anyway, you will need the energy.
Carry a zip lock of jujubes, hard candies, gummies, Smarties or the like. Sometimes it's easier to suck on a candy than eat a boiled egg.
DRINKING -
Dehydration is a bad thing. When air pressure decreases at altitude the water in your body boils away through your eyes, nose, mouth and lungs in addition to your normal sweat. You need to replace it by regular drinking. I carried a bottle in my hand for most of the climb and made myself sip, sip, sip. If you feel head-achy, nauseous or become uncoordinated or start to stumble, take a drink immediately.
ALTITUDE SICKNESS -
This is a serious condition. A lot of the early symptoms of altitude sickness are similar to being dehydrated or being hung over. If you start to feel unwell let your guide know as soon as possible. You may have to go down.
A friend of mine tried this climb a few years ago and thought he could 'tough out' the discomfort. He was coughing up blood before the guide caught him and sent him down.
THIN AIR -
It's amazing how stupid you can get when your brain is oxygen starved. Until I got down into the thicker air, 2800M below, I didn't realize how impaired my thinking had been at the summit. Know this and plan for it. Think about the things that might go wrong on the mountain and what to do in each circumstance. What would make you abandon the climb? What constitutes an emergency? The higher you go the less clear your thinking will be and the more likely you are to make an error in judgement so do your really important thinking and planning down low.
TREATS -
Treats are appreciated by everyone, fellow climbers and staff alike. Hard candies, gummies, cookies are all good things to share. Share yours at the first opportunity so you don't wind up carrying them for days.
TIPS FOR THE TRIP -
HEALTH AND SAFETY -
Get your shots well in advance. Sometimes there is a waiting list and some shots must be taken as a course of shots over time.
For MALARIA you will be offered a variety of drug options. I chose the twice-a-day amoxycilan. It calls for clock-watching, discipline and piles of pills but I wouldn't even consider the once-a-week option. One of the 'possible side effects' of that drug is permanent psychosis. I don't know why that drug would even be offered.
It doesn't hurt to carry your own basic 1st aid kit plus some extra foot-care items. Two people on my tour wound up with hideously blistered and bruised feet.
MONEY -
I don't know how your trip is being managed or who is handling the money but some things in Tanzania must be paid in US dollars cash. If you are responsible for any of this then know that they won't accept bills that are torn or excessively wrinkled/crumpled. They like crisp, new cash.
Most things can be bought with local Shillings and the National Bank of Commerce (NBC) has cash machines in all major cities. It's been 10 years since I was there (2006) so other banks probably have machines now too. It's nice to have some local currency so you can wander the streets if you have some free time. I would suggest opening an account at a bank other than your regular one and getting a bank card that only has access to that account then deposit what you think is a reasonable amount of spending money for the trip. If the card gets compromised while you're travelling the thieves only have access to that one deposit and not your whole portfolio. Tell your banker what you plan to do and that you plan to go to Tanzania/Kenya. If you don't let the bank know in advance there is the possibility that the card my be cancelled if it is used outside of North America.
I might be showing my age here but don't bother with traveller's cheques. They will be more trouble than they're worth. Most people and businesses won't accept them and and they can take more than an hour to cash at a bank.
SOCIETY -
If you haven't been to Africa before, it's not like here. Things will take some getting used to.
It's an awful thing to say but in Tanzania everybody has their hand out. From the legless beggar on the sidewalk to the suit-wearing businessman in the SUV, sooner of later you will be asked for money.
Rich and poor live side by side, or at least in the same neighbourhood. Don't be afraid to go out and meet the locals, most are just trying to make a living, but stick with the crowds. Stay in public places, don't go off with somebody alone, every society has its 'bad eggs.' But definitely visit a local bar or restaurant. Buy something from a street vendor. In Moshi (and you'll be going there) I saw a fellow sitting on the sidewalk with his treadle sewing machine. I bought a piece of printed cloth for $2 and he sewed it into a shirt for $5. I still have it.
Street hawkers will follow you down the street to sell you something. I had one follow me for 6 blocks in Moshi. If you only speak English they will know that you're fresh off the plane so "Hapana Asante" is your friend. It means 'No Thank you' in Swahili. All of the vowels are pronounced. All of the a's are soft and the "e" is hard. Say "Hapana Asante," try to sound bored and keep walking. It won't eliminate all hassles but it will cut down the number.
Of course, if you like something "yes please" is, "ndiyo tafadhali." Once again all a's are soft, "i" & "o" are hard.
Tanzania is a country constructed by European colonialists from about 120 separate tribes, each with their own language and culture. To help hold the country together everybody learns Swahili (the official language) in elementary school. Elementary school is mandatory and taught in Swahili to grade 8. Beyond that, high school and university are taught in English. Just about everyone you meet will speak English but it's nice to have a few words of Swahili because it shows that you will speak to anyone, not just the educated and rich.
That's all I have for right now but I'm pretty sure that there is more and I've forgotten something. The question I was asked was open ended and I've tried to cover a lot of ground. If you need specific information, clarification or want to ask a more in-depth question please write or give me a call or buy me a beer. I'd love to chat.
Brent
More about the Mountain
Last weekend I talked to my friend who had tried to climb Kilimanjaro and been turned around 500 metres below the summit. He quoted the Assistant Guide as saying, "You go top, you die."
Don't forget that people die on Kilimanjaro every year. The day before we started our climb a man, who had made it to the top, died on the way down. Two more people died while we were on the mountain. Three had also died in the previous calender month. It's serious business. Remember, for a climbing expedition to be a success, you have to make it to the bottom of the mountain.
Some tours offer an add-on of going to Zanzibar before or after the Kili climb. If you plan to do this my advice is to go after the climb. It's much safer physiologically to go from a mountain top to sea level than to go from sea level to a mountain top. My unfortunate friend went scuba diving off Zanzibar before heading up the mountain; the worst possible order in which to do things.
I've talked about dehydration quite a bit. I don't know if you did the experiment in Junior-high physics where you take a beaker of tap water and put it under a bell-jar. Then you start to pump the air out of the jar and as the air pressure drops the water starts to boil off the surface. The same thing happens to the water in your body when you're on the mountain. The air pressure there is about 30 or 35% less than it is at sea level. Water evaporates out of your nose and mouth and lungs at a much higher rate than it does at home. Keep drinking.
If you don't own a lot of outdoor, cold weather gear you can load up on wool and acrylic at the Value Village or Goodwill or the like. Military surplus stores also carry some good stuff. You don't have to be fashionable to do this climb, just warm and comfortable. If you don't plan to do more of this type of adventuring you can lighten your load by giving your clothes to the guides and porters at the end of the trip. They will appreciate it and I found it easier to give away things that I had bought used and cheap rather than things that I'd bought new and only worn the once.
Don't take 'Heat Factory' or 'Hot Hands' or 'Hot Pockets' or other self-heating packets up the mountain. You know, the kind with the plastic packet that you just tear open and they heat up by themselves? There isn't enough oxygen at the top of the mountain for them to work properly.
Try not to get too enthusiastic about the climb. I know that sounds funny and it probably isn't the right wording for what I mean. Your guide should set a slow, steady pace for the hike. Keep up with him and keep moving, don't try to zoom ahead, even if the path is well marked or an assistant-guide is willing to take you up faster, or if other hikers are passing you along the way. On our first day we got passed by a Scottish hiking club that was on a fund-raiser. Two of their group burned themselves out and couldn't continue on the second day. Very sad. In thin air your recovery time is longer than at lower elevation and the air on your first night won't be nearly as thin as will get to be the night before you summit. Save your strength.
Nobody told me about the short shelf between Stella Point and Uhuru Peak. On summit-day you'll climb a long switchback scree slope to Stella Point. That's on the rim of the caldera and is the end of the steep climbing. You'll get a certificate from the Park Office if you make it that far. After that you walk a relatively gentle slope around the rim to reach the highest point. Along the way the very broad path narrows and you find yourself with a stone wall on your left and cliff on your right. There is no real danger of falling since the shelf is (from memory) 3 or 4 feet wide and only 10 or 15 feet long, but I'm afraid of heights so it kind of freaked me out. After the shelf the path widens out again, almost wide enough for a soccer field.
Cell phones are pretty much useless during the climb since their signals are intended to be line-of-sight but from the top of the mountain you can see Moshi. I saw several people talking on their phones from the top. (Probably analogue at the time.)
If you have the mountain climbing/hiking bug and have the time, go to Arusha and climb Mount Meru. My tour did this as a warm-up and the tour leader told me, "You came to Africa to climb Kilimanjaro and if you don't make it you'll be disappointed but if you climb both of these mountains successfully you will like Meru better." He was right. The climb is steeper but it's still just a steep hike, no ropes or harnesses, although I did use my hands a few times. The summit is almost a mile lower than Kili so the air is thicker, less chance of altitude sickness. The climb takes you through several climactic zones so you see the changes in the vegetation and wildlife (and there is wildlife); after the 1st day on Kili most of the scenery is rocks. The facilities on Meru are better. The view from the top is spectacular. Meru almost comes to a point, there is a flat area on top about the size of your bedroom, on 3 sides the mountain slopes down steeply on the 4th side are the highest cliffs in Africa. Kilimanjaro is relatively crowded but the day we submitted Meru we were the only people on the mountain.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Meru_%28Tanzania%29
I think that's about it, unless you have questions.
Brent
P.S. "Baridi bia tafadhali" = Cold beer, please.
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